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I got up early because I had booked a tour with the Airbnb host's father to take me around some places outside of Mostar. He had a very old green and red car and his English was bad, yet much better than I had expected given what I had read in the reviews.
The first stop was Kravica waterfalls. It was about an hour drive. It was sunny. We drove with open windows. Sorry, window. You what the Balkans think of the draft…
We got to Kravica where my luxury driver told me to take all the time in the world; he'd be waiting. I was almost alone at the waterfall, which was quite big, both wide and in terms of volume of water, though not very tall. The only other people there were some people cleaning up some unwanted plants or grass or whatever they were doing. It was only on the way back that some, or shall I say a crowd of people started arriving.
I went further, because I had seen a sign saying "Malo Kravica", or little "Kravica". However, there was nothing else except just the river from the waterfall and the nice sound from the waterfall in the distance and the river. I had a bit of my corn snack while enjoying the sun; it was way too hot for my coat now which I left hanging on one of the backpack straps.
Then I headed back to the car. The drive to the next place was much shorter. The next destination was Počitelj; this tiny little town dating back to the 15th century. I hadn't heard of it before I was offered this trip but it was probably the best part of the tour.
The town was located like…on a hillside with a tower on top, with a mosque, and by the beautiful, turquoise Neretva river. This time I had left my coat in the car, and thank God for that because even my jeans were getting too hot walking those stairs up to the tower.
I got to the tower that already presented an amazing view over the town and the valley, but better yet, you could go up in the tower!
It was all extremely unofficial. There was no sign that you could go up. No warning sign of the dark stairs. You didn't pay anything to get up there… And this was no place for anyone afraid of heights. Inside the tower, there was a room, and when you started walking up the stairs that went in a spiral alongside the walls, there would be certain windows or floors that you arrived to, from where you could fall, walk or jump straight into the centre room. So quite creepy to say the least.
The top of the tower didn't necessarily have the best view, because it was closed with rather small windows. Yet I still found it so amazing to have climbed to the top. But I think a big part of my amazement was the fact that I was alone. There hadn't been a single tourist in sight all my way up, nor at the tower, nor inside the tower. It was just so crazy and beautiful and amazing at the same time.
Admittedly, after having spent a while up there, enjoying the insane thrill, I did spot some tourists on their way to the tower. It was like being on watch for the town and spotting enemies below because I decided to hurry down because it'd get crowded. And indeed, when I got down and out of the tower "area", and entire school class appeared out of nowhere. Probably more, because down at the parking, there were way more than 30 teenagers.
I didn't go downstairs quite yet though. I decided to enjoy the town to the fullest and explored the small houses, streets, the town wall. Since I had a private driver, I hadn't brought my headphones, and you could hear flies and bees buzz in the grass. Finally some real spring.
It was already past noon when I finished with Počitelj, and decided I needed something to eat. There was a restaurant at the base of the town that had the basic Balkan dishes. I don't really know what I had expected but I had at least hoped I could get it quickly, and that I could take it to go. But it took ages for the food to arrive and it definitely wasn't very suitable to go. A gigantic plate with pljeskavica and fries, even though I had asked not to get any fries, and bread. Without kaymak even though I had asked for that. On the other hand I got ajvar, but I found it to be quite a bitter one. The weather was good enough to sit outside though, despite it being a bit windy right there but some Germans had taken the only seats in the sun.
I felt a bit sorry for my driver who was just waiting. I had asked if he had wanted to eat with me or get something but he had said no. I must have been his slowest guest ever, but I hurried as much I could. But that's probably not saying much for the slow eater I am…
The last destination was Blagaj. A town or place most famous for it's dervish tekkah house on the river, though I still don't quite understand what that even is. As far as I know, it's a type of Muslim religion. Just like Catholics or Protestants…but like a lot smaller. And I wasn't allowed to enter the house itself without taking my shoes off and covering my head. Though I had left my coat in the car again, I was wearing my scarf so I could cover a bit. She didn't care that my fringe was still visible and the rest of my hair. The building on the inside wasn't very exciting. Not much. But admittedly the house had a very…unusual and cool location just by/on the river, right below a mountain or cliff even. The water was super clear and the colour made you want to jump right into it (if not for the strong current and knowing how cold it was of course).
On the way back to the car, I got a small plastic cup of pomegranate seeds for just 1€. You can't even get the pomegranate for that price at home! Not to even speak of the price when it's been peeled for you. So yummy and refreshing in the sun.
After that, the tour was over and we returned to Mostar. Once there, I went out to discover the city.
I've seen plenty of pictures of the Old Bridge (or Stari Most as it's called in the original language) but it just doesn't compare to seeing it for real. It's just as beautiful in real life. Especially, or maybe because the sun was shining. And the river below it amazingly greenish turquoise.
I headed to the Old Town where they of course had plenty of souvenirs and loads of restaurants. There were quite a few tourists there now but I can't even imagine how crowded it is in summer. I got a single scoop of ice cream in the spring heat while on the lookout for a the perfect postcard for my collection, and maybe one for my grandparents. I found one, but I was still eating my ice cream and just…ice cream, postcard, wallet, camera…too messy. So I decided I'd come back for it later.
I walked along the streets of the Old Town, enjoying all the beautiful souvenirs and the sun. I ended up walking all the way to the city centre, though I realized it wasn't very interesting there. Saw some completely torn buildings on the way, other concrete buildings from the Communist times.
Having realized Mostar wasn't bigger than that, I decided to head back to my base to take a shower before meeting with a friend in the evening, a girl I know from my famous Paris trip, the very reason I have friends in the most random places around the world. Including my friend in Chile and Rwanda, for those of you who have read my blog for years on end now…
On the way back, I decided to pass by my postcard place now that I wasn't eating ice cream anymore. Despite it not being that late, and all other shops still being open, this one had closed though. I had seen many other postcards during the day but nothing that had that stunning view. It's also weird because you know how…in most places, or at least at home, you find the same postcards in most of the stores because there are only like two companies producing them. But here…all the postcards were different everywhere! So even though I had been on the lookout for that postcard, I hadn't found another one like it.
I met my friend at the Old Bridge sometime past 8 o'clock and went to one of the nearby restaurants. She works as a tour guide, and Mostar is quite small, so she knew the waiters. I got cevapi - again - because that seems to be the only thing people here ever recommend. I wasn't that hungry and thought we'd share but when the food arrived she said she didn't want any. It looked like a lot but somehow I finished most of as if I had been starving. This cevapi, or actually the bread that came along with it, and the kaymak, made it a lot more memorable than…that other time I had it.
It was past 10 when I got back so I was quite happy to have already showered. I went back to the Airbnb but found that the main door was locked and the key had been left in the lock on the inside, because I couldn't open it. I could hear they were still awake but for some reason they didn't open when I knocked. Three times. Eventually I knocked on the window to the room I knew they were, and that's when I finally started hearing someone approach the door. They opened and realized their mistake, apologizing so much. So I got some sleep at last.
Next up: First impressions of Dubrovnik, King's Landing, whatever you prefer to call it.